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entry Apr. 2003
Piazza Dante
Piazza Dante is a bit of welcome
wide-open space in a city notoriously lacking in elbow
room. It was closed for a few years while they built
the new Metropolitana underground train station. Now
that that is finished, it was well worth the wait for
two reasons: one, it's a place to sit down or stroll
around a bit in the middle of a busy city, and, two,
the square is now conveniently connected to the Vomero
section of town a few miles away and 600 feet higher
in elevation.
This square, named for one of the greatest names in
world literature, is dominated by a 19th-century
statue of the poet, sculpted by Tito Angelini. Long
ago the square was called Largo del Mercatello—simply,
Market
Square—and, then, in 1765 was rechristened "Foro
Carolina," after the wife
of the King of Naples. At that time, the
original square was greatly modified by Luigi Vanvitelli. He
essentially converted the rear of a huge and ancient
(from the 600s) monastic complex, St. Sebastian, into
the front of his new building that was to look out
over Foro Carolina. The monastery remained open and
Vanvitelli opened a new entrance from the "new"
square. (The old monastery premises once served as a
music conservatory and now serve as a high school.)
The ornate semicircular arrangement of columns and
statues that now fronts on the square was originally
intended to depict the virtues of Charles III, the first
Bourbon king of Naples; the niche in the center was to
have been dedicated to the monarch. It now, however,
marks the entrance to a boarding-school named for
Victor Emanuel II. Piazza Dante was the site of the
Cafe Diodato, a gathering place of actors at the end
of the 19th century, who, during the summer months
would perform on a stage set up amid the tables.
Facing the great semicircular building, one sees Port'Alba
on the left. Port'Alba was an old city gate,
moved in the 17th century by the Spanish viceroy Duke
d'Alba Antonio Alvarez de Toledo, and incorporated
into the restructured Foro Carolina. On the right is
the Church of San Michele, and across from the square
is the Church of San
Domenico Soriano with its adjacent convent, now
housing the municipal registry office.
Poor Dante was moved 100 meters away in order to
accommodate the construction of the new station. He
was put back center-stage and sand-blasted clean as a
whistle. That has to be repeated periodically due to
morons with magic markers and cans of spray paint.
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